Home/Labels & ribbons/A4 sheet labels
A4 laser sheets · no label printer neededSheets of labels that go through the laser or inkjet printer you own. No machine to buy, no ribbon, no software — load a sheet, print, peel.
Twenty-nine layouts, from one label filling the page down to sixty-five on a sheet, in white and six colours. A hundred sheets to a box.
Got a label printer already? Roll labels are through here — direct thermal and thermal transfer, any standard size, and far cheaper per label than a sheet.
Need thermal transfer ribbons? Click here — wax, wax-resin and resin, in both printer sizes.
It often is, and it is the one thing a barcode company has an incentive not to tell you. So here is both halves of it.
A few dozen labels a week, an office that already has a printer, and no appetite for a machine, a ribbon, stock and software before the first label comes out. Print what you need on the equipment you own. For a small operation or a job that happens twice a year, that is the sensible purchase and we will say so.
Cost per label is considerably higher than a dedicated label printer, and it is the reason most people move. The range is smaller — far fewer sizes, colours and materials than roll stock.
One label costs you thirty. Print a single label off a sheet of thirty and the other twenty-nine are spoiled. And laser printers eat them: a curved paper path jams sheet labels, and the heat inside the machine gets into the adhesive.
If you have outgrown sheets, we will tell you. The cheapest desktop machine that ends the problem is on the printers page, and the roll stock that goes through it costs a fraction of this per label. We would rather sell you the right thing once.
Every one of these is sold by the box of a hundred sheets. If you have an old box, the layout number on it is all you need.
Showing all of them.
Nothing here matches that. Try clearing a filter — and if you are measuring an old sheet, the layout number printed on the box is easier to go on than the millimetres.
Those numbers the other way round would find something.
No prices on this page yet, and that is deliberate. A4 sheets are bought by the box and the sensible price depends on how many boxes and how often. Rather than publish a number that is wrong for most people, tell us the layout and the quantity and the answer comes back with a price either way.
Freight depends on how many and where to. One box and a dozen are not the same parcel, and larger orders ship free. The quote covers the freight as well as the labels, so there is nothing to work out afterwards.
The matt stock goes through all three. Gloss is laser and copier only — inkjet ink sits on top of a gloss face and smears rather than drying into it. That is a limit of the stock, not of the printer.
Most of the range is permanent. One line in each layout is removable, which lifts off glass, plastic and painted metal without leaving a residue — the right choice for anything temporary, and the wrong one for anything that has to stay.
Yellow, orange, red, green, blue, and a fluoro pink, in every layout. Colour is how a warehouse separates two jobs at a glance without reading anything, and it costs more per box than white does.
The commonest fault with labels through a laser printer, and it looks alarming. It is almost always the cheapest thing on this list, and it is worth knowing why before you buy a drum you do not need.
It is drum memory. Toner does not fully release from the drum, and the drum lays it down again one circumference later — which is why the ghost lands in a different place on the same sheet, or on the next one, rather than directly under the thing that caused it.
Label stock makes it worse, and that is not a fault in the labels. The sheets are thicker than paper and the adhesive layer insulates, so the fuser runs cooler against them than it was set up to. Under-fused toner is exactly what sticks to the drum.
A cartridge near the end cannot lay an even layer down, so transfer goes patchy and the drum holds the image instead of releasing it. It is the commonest cause and the easiest to miss, because the page still looks printed — just dirty. If the low-toner light is on, or you are shaking the cartridge to get another few pages out of it, stop there. That is almost certainly your answer.
Check the real figure rather than the light. Most network printers have their own web page — type the printer's IP address into a browser and it will give you a percentage per cartridge. A printer can ghost for a while before it refuses to print, so the light is the last warning rather than the first.
A new cartridge can ghost from the moment it goes in and then stop by itself. It is the only cause on this list that fixes itself, and it is the one most likely to have you redesigning a label that was never at fault.
It caught us out on our own re-order labels. A new black cartridge went in and the first sheets ghosted; the next day the same file — not one thing changed — printed clean twice over. Run a stack of plain paper through, print it again, and only then start changing things.
Set the paper type to Heavy, Labels or Cardstock rather than Plain. It slows the feed and raises the fuser temperature, which is the actual problem. This fixes it on its own more often than not, and it costs nothing but a tick box.
Plain paper, straight after the label job. It scrubs the drum clean before the next thing you print, so the ghost does not follow you onto an invoice. Worth doing as a habit whether or not you have a problem.
It is not how much black is on the sheet, it is how concentrated it is. A barcode is thin bars with white between them, so the toner is spread thin and the drum recovers between bars — a sheet carrying forty barcodes can come out clean. A big solid headline, a logo or a QR block is a continuous mass of toner in one place, and that is the part that does not fully release.
Make it smaller, break it up, or drop it from solid black to 90%. Reducing the type size is the quickest thing to try, but be aware how easy it is to credit a change that was not the cause — if you have just changed the toner, work through step 02 before you redesign anything. To work out which element did it, measure from the ghost back to the real thing: that gap is one turn of the drum and it is the same on every sheet from that printer, so whatever sits that far ahead of the ghost is what caused it.
If the five above change nothing, the drum is near the end of its life. Ghosting is one of the classic symptoms. It is last on this list because it is the only one that costs money, and because three times out of four it is not the answer.
None of this is specific to our labels. It happens with any brand through any laser printer, and it is the reason the box says heavy stock settings. If you have worked through all six and it is still ghosting, tell us what the printer is and we will tell you what we know.
None of them are compulsory — if you only know some of it, send what you have. A photograph of the box the last lot came in answers all of it on its own.
Send a photograph of the box, or of the thing you are labelling. Thirty-five years of this says the answer is usually obvious from the picture.